Just prior to the bridge leading into the town of Amlapura, in a valley of solidified lava, is a road that leads inland to lower slopes of Mount Agung. Joining up with the Klungkung -Besakih road at Rendang, this forms an inland route through some of the most delightful scenery of the easternmost regency. The road winds through rustic little villages climbing up through the salak plantations of Sibetan to Selat.

Salak plantation at Sibetan

A back road branches off from Selat through the villages of Iseh, which was chosen by the German artist Walter Spies as a country retreat in 1932. Later, Swiss painter Theo Meier lived in the same house, which was recenty rebuilt and restored by Florentine-born writer Idana Pucci. The rustic little village of Iseh commands a magnificent view of rice field terraces that stretch up towards the volcano.

Walter Spies’ house – you can see Mount Agung as background.

Editor’s Note
Please visit Walter Spies House at Tjampuhan Hotel, Ubud.

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